Making custom two-piece wheels is a time-consuming process, so I’m going to break it down step by step in this post and provide you with a hopefully useful reference guide for you to use when building your own.
And customduallytruckaccessories.com will answer the questions around How to make 3 piece wheels
DISCLAIMER: I am in no way warranting or providing any form of guarantee, advice, or even suggesting that you should construct these wheels in any manner. It is important to note that these wheels will not be road legal and are only intended for display purposes.
In this post, I will concentrate on the process of putting Peugeot 15′′ 205/309 1.9 GTi Speedline faces into BMW 17′′ Split Rims Barrels, but the procedure should be the same for the majority of vehicles. As stated in the previous disclaimer, anything you construct is entirely your responsibility, and I am not liable for any damages or harm caused by your tinkering with electronics. Having said that, go ahead and tinker on brother =D.
Take four perfectly good wheels as an example:
Introduce them to the concept of an angle grinder (be sure to use a aluminium compatible wheel).
BMW E39 17-inch wheels (ideally five, but four will suffice), wheels must be free of tyres.
A water jet or a friend who has access to a water jet.
A plasma cutter or a friend who owns a plasma cutter is required.
A helpful and friendly local machinist (with a lathe & CNC mill)
As a result, you’ll need something to hold the wheel in the lathe; I created the arbour in the photo below to serve this purpose. There should be little runout in the arbour and it should be stiff and square. Because of the size of the lathe, I had to remove the arbour from the lathe each time I wanted to machine the back side, which necessitated truing the setup each time.
In addition, I used 997 wheel bolts rather than studs to secure the wheel to the arbour because they were more convenient than studs.
Now comes the difficult part: positioning the arbour in the four-jaw chuck so that the run out is as close to zero as possible while also being square.
Setup of the arbour on the lathe and mounting of the wheel:
Some of the material has been removed. This project’s primary goal was to machine a flat surface to which the rim could be fastened, as well as to design a centring spigot to fit a BBS or similar motor-sport rim. The center bore of a 17-inch BBS rim is 321mm plus a small amount of clearance (0.1mm).
To machine the back side, flip the wheel/arbor over and machine the back side until it is smooth. There is not enough material available to create a centring spigot for the rear wheel due to the shape of the forging. Unfortunately, this is the case. I was only able to comfortably achieve 1.5/2mm in depth in order to avoid reducing too much material.
The fact of the matter is that fitment can be customized to meet any specification. The size of the wheel’s lip and barrel can be customized to your specifications. In this way, you can choose any wheel width or offset you want, allowing for a more precise fitment for your automobile. Make a change to your ride height or add flares to your vehicle? Taking the faces apart and putting them back together with new hardware is all that is required to re-barrel the faces. The advantages are virtually limitless; the only drawback is the cost. So, if you have access to professional-level tools, a rusty set of wheels, and some spare time, you now know what you should do for your next endeavor.
Most wheels are single-piece wheels, made using casting, forging, rim rolling and/or high light methods.
In a three-piece wheel, there are three distinct parts: the center, the inner barrel, and the outside of the wheel. The center is forged, the inner barrel is spun aluminum, and the outer barrel is spun aluminum (lip). The final product is made up of these three components that are sealed together.
One-piece forged wheels are the most durable. However, while three-piece wheels are heavier (due to the addition of the hardware), they allow for a deeper outer lip appearance and allow wheel manufacturers to adjust offset and width while using the same center but with different inner and outer barrels.
3. Piece Wheels: If you’re in the market for a new set of wheels, 3-piece wheels are a fantastic choice. They are available in a variety of sizes and finishes, and because they are made of forged aluminum, they are significantly lighter than cast wheels.
Spilt rims are multi-piece wheels in which the tyre is held in place by a locking ring. Spilt rims are used for a variety of applications. Split rims are not commonly found on automobiles or other light vehicles. A number of larger vehicle types, however, are equipped with them as standard equipment.
The advantage of a three-piece wheel is that it can be repaired by purchasing a replacement part, but the whole point of having a three-piece wheel is to avoid having your wheel damaged in the first place. With more separate pieces being put together to form one thing, it is inevitable that there will be more maintenance in the future.
What exactly are they? Multi-piece wheels, as the name implies, are constructed from a number of different pieces. In the case of two-piece wheels, the center section is connected to the wheel’s outer barrel. A three-piece wheel uses the same basic concept as a two-piece wheel, but there is an inner and outer section to the barrel that is sealed to ensure that it is airtight.